Marinate (optional but recommended). The night before, combine the beef, wine, roughly chopped onion, carrots, and garlic in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove the beef and pat completely dry. Reserve the wine and vegetables separately.

Render the lardons. In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the lardons until the fat has rendered and they are lightly golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the fat in the pot.

Sear the beef. Increase heat to high. Add the vegetable oil to the lardon fat. Working in small batches — no more than a single layer — sear the beef on all sides until deeply browned, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Do not move the beef while it is searing. Do not crowd the pan. Remove each batch and set aside. This step takes patience and multiple batches. It is the most important step in the recipe.

Cook the aromatics. Reduce heat to medium. Add the marinated vegetables (or fresh onion, carrot, and garlic if not marinating) to the pot and cook until softened and lightly colored, about 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir to coat, cooking for 2 minutes.

Reduce the wine. Pour in the reserved marinade wine (or the full bottle if not marinating). Bring to a boil and cook until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. This step is not to be skipped.

Braise. Return the beef and lardons to the pot. Add the stock and bouquet garni. The liquid should come about two-thirds up the beef — add more stock if needed. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook in a 325°F oven for 2½ to 3 hours until the beef is completely tender and yielding when pressed with a spoon. Check occasionally and add water if the liquid level drops below the meat.

Prepare the garnish. In a skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add the pearl onions, sprinkle with sugar and salt, and cook until golden and glazed, about 10 minutes. Remove. In the same pan, melt the remaining butter over high heat and sauté the mushrooms until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Finish the sauce. Remove the beef from the braising liquid. Strain the liquid into a saucepan and reduce over high heat until it coats the back of a spoon — this concentrates the flavors and removes excess fat. Return the beef to the Dutch oven with the mushrooms and pearl onions. Pour the reduced sauce over everything. Simmer together for 10 minutes.

Serve over buttered egg noodles, mashed potatoes, or crusty bread. Top with fresh parsley. The dish improves significantly if made a day ahead and reheated — the flavors integrate and the sauce deepens overnight.