Peru contains some of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the Western Hemisphere, one of the world’s great food capitals, and a geographic range that moves from Pacific coastline to high Andean plateau to Amazon rainforest — all within a country that rewards serious travelers more than most destinations on earth.
The Inca Empire, the world’s greatest food city, and a landscape that moves from coast to cloud forest in a day’s drive.
Peru is a country of extraordinary contrasts. Lima, the capital, sits on the Pacific coast in a near-permanent cloud cover that makes it grey and cool — an unlikely setting for what has become one of the world’s most celebrated food cities, driven by a generation of chefs who took the country’s exceptional ingredients seriously. Cusco, the ancient Inca capital in the Andes at 3,400 meters elevation, is the jumping-off point for Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley — the most visited archaeological complex in South America and one of the most significant in the world. Arequipa, Peru’s second city, sits in a high valley surrounded by three volcanoes and has a colonial historic center of white sillar stone that is among the finest in South America. Machu Picchu itself, accessible by train and on foot, is one of the handful of places in the world where the reality genuinely equals the reputation.
Altitude is the central practical reality of travel in highland Peru. Cusco at 3,400m and Machu Picchu at 2,430m affect most visitors to some degree — acclimatization is not optional, and the first day in Cusco should be treated as a rest day regardless of how you feel on arrival.
The world’s most biodiverse food country, with a cuisine that has earned global recognition.
Peru has arguably the most biologically diverse food supply of any country on earth — a consequence of its extraordinary range of ecosystems, from Pacific waters rich in cold-current seafood to Andean highlands with thousands of native potato varieties to Amazon rainforest with ingredients available nowhere else. The result is a food culture of remarkable depth that has attracted international attention since the early 2000s and now ranks Peru alongside France, Japan, and Italy as one of the world’s most important food destinations.
- Ceviche in Peru is a fundamentally different dish from any version available outside the country — fresh raw fish cured in lime juice (leche de tigre), with ají amarillo chili, red onion, and cilantro, served at room temperature rather than chilled, and eaten with choclo (large-kernel corn) and cancha (toasted corn) on the side
- Lima has more restaurants in the World’s 50 Best list than any other South American city — Central (consistently ranked among the world’s top 5) explores Peru’s vertical ecosystems through a tasting menu of ingredients from different elevations; Maido, Astrid y Gastón, and Cosme represent other points on the city’s exceptional fine dining spectrum
- Pisco — the Peruvian grape brandy made from specific grape varieties grown in the coastal valleys — is the national spirit, and the pisco sour (pisco, lime, sugar, egg white, and bitters) is one of South America’s great cocktails; the debate between Peru and Chile over pisco’s origin is a matter of national seriousness in both countries
- Peru has over 3,000 native varieties of potato, hundreds of varieties of corn, and thousands of other endemic food plants — the agricultural biodiversity of the Andes is extraordinary and is still being documented by food scientists
- Chicha morada — a deeply purple non-alcoholic drink made from dried purple corn, fruit, and spices — is Peru’s most refreshing and most traditional soft drink, available throughout the country
Four destinations, each with a complete set of guides.
Every destination below includes a city guide covering neighborhoods and logistics, a food guide covering what to eat and where to find it, and an accommodation guide covering where to stay and why. The guides are designed to work together — use them in combination to build a complete picture of each destination.
Lima is South America’s finest food city — a claim that would have seemed improbable two decades ago and is now uncontested by serious food travelers. The neighborhoods of Miraflores and Barranco are the most visitor-friendly bases, with the best concentration of restaurants at every price level. The Larco Museum houses one of the world’s finest pre-Columbian art collections in a beautiful colonial mansion in Pueblo Libre. The Huaca Pucllana archaeological site in Miraflores — an adobe pyramid built by the Lima culture approximately 1,500 years ago — sits incongruously in the middle of the city. Lima’s grey coastal light and constant cloud cover are a surprise to most visitors; the food compensates comprehensively.
Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire — the largest pre-Columbian empire in the Americas — and the city’s historical layers are visible everywhere: Inca stone foundations supporting Spanish colonial churches, Inca walls incorporated into modern buildings, and the extraordinary Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) buried beneath the Convent of Santo Domingo. The city sits at 3,400 meters and altitude sickness affects most visitors regardless of fitness level — the first day should be spent resting, drinking coca tea, and moving slowly. The boleto turístico (tourist ticket) covers most major archaeological sites in and around the city. Cusco is also the base for the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and the Inca Trail — all of which require advance planning and booking.
Arequipa is Peru’s second city and one of South America’s most beautiful — a city built largely in white sillar volcanic stone, with a Plaza de Armas that many consider the finest in Peru and a historic center (UNESCO World Heritage) of colonial churches and monasteries that is exceptionally well-preserved. The Santa Catalina Monastery, a city-within-a-city of brightly painted streets and convents covering 2 hectares in the city center, is one of the most extraordinary religious complexes in South America. Arequipa also sits at the entrance to the Colca Canyon — one of the world’s deepest canyons, twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, and a key viewing site for the Andean condor, the world’s largest flying bird. The city’s altitude (2,335m) is significantly more comfortable than Cusco for acclimatization.
Machu Picchu is the Inca citadel built in the 15th century at 2,430 meters on a ridge above the Urubamba River — one of the most significant archaeological sites in the Americas and one of the handful of places in the world that genuinely exceeds its reputation. Entry is strictly controlled and capacity-limited; tickets must be purchased in advance at machupicchu.gob.pe and sell out months ahead in peak season. The site is reached by train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (the town at the base of the mountain) followed by a bus up the switchback road, or by the classic Inca Trail (4 days, booked a full year in advance through licensed operators) or alternative treks. Arriving by the first bus at dawn — when morning mist fills the valley below the ruins — is one of the most extraordinary travel experiences in the world.
Book Machu Picchu first. Acclimatize seriously. Give Peru more time than you think it needs.
Peru is a country where advance planning pays significant dividends. Machu Picchu entry tickets and the Inca Trail both sell out months ahead. Lima’s best restaurants require reservations. The train to Aguas Calientes fills up in peak season. The difference between a well-planned Peru trip and an improvised one is the difference between seeing everything you came for and missing the most important things.
Altitude acclimatization. This is the single most important practical consideration for any highland Peru trip. Cusco at 3,400m will affect most visitors regardless of fitness — headaches, fatigue, and shortness of breath are common. Plan your first day in Cusco as a rest day. Avoid alcohol on the first night. Drink coca tea, which is available everywhere and provides genuine mild relief. Diamox (acetazolamide) is available by prescription in most countries and reduces symptoms significantly — consult your doctor before travel.
Getting around. Lima to Cusco is 1 hour by domestic flight — the bus (20+ hours) is an option only for travelers with substantial time. Cusco to Aguas Calientes (for Machu Picchu) is by Peru Rail or Inca Rail — book at perurail.com or incarail.com. Lima to Arequipa is 1 hour by flight or 16 hours by bus on the comfortable Cruz del Sur service.
Best time to visit. May through October is the dry season in the Andes — the best conditions for Machu Picchu and highland travel. November through April is the wet season, with the Inca Trail closing entirely in February for maintenance. Lima’s coast has weather largely reversed from the highlands — May through November is grey and cool (the garúa fog season); December through April brings the best coastal weather.